LRCC

G'day Robin,

I'll just post the pictures here for your benefit and anyone else who may derive some use from them.

The first picture shows the angle I bent the tube to. The tube I used is 3/8" 4130 chrome moly. I picked a reference point FWD and AFT of the bend and ran a string line between them. I bent the tube until I had a deflection of 17mm from the string line which translated to an internal angle of 178°.

The second picture shows the plate positioning on the tube prior to welding. I clamped the 3 plates to a bench at specific distances apart. I then positioned the bar over the top (with the bend in the tube positioned in line with the centre of the middle plate) and clamped at specific distances from the top edge of each plate (measured along the centreline of each plate). Then the bar was TIG welded while in situ.

I worked out the dimensions by clamping all of the components to the my roof and worked out the best positioning.

I hope this is helpful. If anyone has any questions please ask.

Cheers

Glen

Just finished the strengthening bars and other fibreglass repairs to my roof:




Brought back memories - the smell of resin, sticky fingers, and bits of glassfibre stuck in hands and arms Should really have covered up, but it was such a warm day!

Now to put it to one side while I work on the rest of the vehicle.

My intention is to resin in the curtain rail wood again, paint the inside of the roof white, spray the outside with white paintable stonechip and paint it white or limestone (as per AlexB).

Then, when the rest of the vehicle is ready, re-fix the canvas to the cap using all new brass 4BA nuts and bolts, and refit to the vehicle.

The canvas itself is in pretty good condition, but does have some wear holes/tears at each end of the hinge section, so I'm wondering if anyone has any pieces from an old canvas, a couple of square feet would do, so I can repair it before it goes back on?

Cheers,
Robin.

Hi Robin

Cannot help with the canvas, but I sprayed my cap inside and outside with gel coat, using a standard cheap spraygun. Had to wet flat the outside, but left the inside as it was after I sprayed it. Certainly brightened up the whole vehicle. I had to replace all the bars in my roof when I restored it and refit the wood for the curtain rails.

Mick

I'm trying to source some 'canvas' for you Robin.

I have some samples on the way to me. The fabric in question is discontinued but appears to be flame retardant pvc.

I'll forward a sample for your perusal once the pieces have arrived.

Cheers.

Thanks Matt

I've just seen this post.
I replied to another just now, thinking I must have imagined replying before.

Haha - yes, I've seen your other post, thanks Matt

Cheers,
Robin.

I saw this late but I have to join the club!

That was 2007, rusty rod/plates in the hing-side and the front:





I had few skills and little equipment at the time so I used aluminum rods and zinc-coated plates meant for wood construction. I tied the rods and the plates together with steel wire and epoxied them, then fiberglassed them in. It's holding up fine 11 years later.

The inside had been painted with household latex paint and I couldn't remove it so I cleaned it and repainted it a cream color with enamel, did the wood with linseed oil.

I used Gelcoat outside only over the blistered sections, applied like blobs of toothpaste and smoothed with a spatula, then wet-sanded by hand. Then polyurethane boat paint, applied by brush, no sanding necessary. But the blisters have begun to recur (and this is a garage-stored car!). Evidently it wasn't the highest-quality fiberglass in the day, but how many modern cars even hold up 11 years, much less 50?

-Jeremy

This was interesting reading, now I understand what I have to do with my roof, the support plates and the pipe are rusted as in the pictures.